- An incandescent strip light - You can use either a full hood like the All Glass Economy Glass Hood (these usually only come in a 10 gallon size) or just the strip light, like this Perfecto Incandescent Strip Light. The benefits of the strip light are that it can be moved and used on any size tank, but it is harder to find in local pet stores and you need to either suspend it (not recommended) or put it on a glass top. It usually costs about $20.
- 2 Full Spectrum Compact Fluorescent Bulbs - You want the screw in variety, not the ones with pins at the base. They also must not be larger in diameter than the light strip they will be used in. Usually, a 25W bulb is about the largest that will fit, unless you can find the non-spiral U-tube variety: then length and the maximum wattage of the strip is the limiting factor (most are 2 x 25W max). These bulbs are quite hard to find in a full spectrum color temperature. Wal-Mart stores often carry a "Lights of America" brand that offers them in Daylight 5500K. Alternatively, many online light bulb sellers, such as 1000bulbs.com or SpecialtyLights.com offer them in spectrums that will work.
If you are looking for the cheapest lighting option with the highest light output, you should consider a CF Spiral bulb unit. Be aware that it is not the most efficent option, many systems are available that offer highly polished and engineered reflectors that give you the same results with a lower wattage because more light is actually getting into the tank. However, these will definitely cost you more up-front.
Pros: Best "bang for your buck" for smaller aquariums, easy to replace bulbs
Cons: Uses more power, creates more heat, less light actually gets into the tank
Total cost: $48: $20 for Incandescent Stip Light, $8 per bulb, $20 for glass hood/canopy
Hi, I wanted to say I like your blog a lot. I have found a lot of useful information for keeping and maintaining a planted aquarium.
ReplyDeleteIn this port you show how to build your own low cost light for growing underwater plants. Everything is correct accept the fact you mention about tin foil.
Tin foil will actually scatter your light even more than a white piece of plastic.
I am sure you have heard of Rex Grigg by now. He mentions on his website about using tinfoil as a reflector as being a horrible idea. This is because the foil is acting as a diffuser for the light. Rex also mentions a test for this. If you point a laser pointer, any kind, at the tin foil and look at the reflection you wont see much. Point it at a mirror and, well I think you know how a mirror reflects.
A couple other ideas you can use as a reflector for your light is grabbing a reflector used in another light fixture if you have access to one.
Or go over to your local hardware store and look for mylar. It's cheap and way more effective than tin foil.
Good Luck.
You are correct that tin foil scatters light. However, in the context of cheap aquarium lighting, reflection is king. It's all about getting the most amount of light that would be otherwise lost reflected back downwards towards the aquarium. The light may be scattered, but it is still entering the aquarium. It may be slightly weakened by that scattering, but a whole lot more is entering the aquarium than would without the foil, offsetting the diffusion. To prove this with a laser, try shining it at the black plastic that exists in lighting hoods and see how much reflects. Then shine it at foil. Or, for a more rudimentary experiment, try lining a hood with foil and leaving another with black plastic, then see which is brighter. Although the light is spread out, it is still light that is entering the aquarium that would otherwise have been absorbed by the black plastic. Nothing else this cheap or easy comes close to matching the reflectiveness of foil. However if you are willing to spend more money and get only marginally better reflection you can try mylar. The ultimate key to this guide was minimal cost/effort and maximum output.
ReplyDeleteI understand you are trying to keep this DIY project as cheap as possible. But I think what is more important is getting more of the cheap light into the tank. The price difference between a sheet of mylar compared to tin foil is hardly any at all. You may be sending a few extra bucks, but those few extra bucks will insure that your tank receives much more light than you would using tin foil.
ReplyDeleteIn my opinion it is a waste of tin foil and time to use the tin foil for the lousy outcome it produces. (diffused light)
I think you can still call your project cheap by adding a few extra buck for mylar and achieving a MUCH better outcome. Or just tell your readers to use white paint.
HI YOUR SITE WAS RECOMMENDED TO ME FROM SOMEONE ON AQUABID.COM A PLACE WHERE I SELL LOTS OF GREAT FISH FOODS.
ReplyDeleteI HAVE USED THE SPIRAL LIGHTS AS SUGGESTED, BUT, IF YOU REALLY WANT TO SAVE MONEY, AND WHO DOESN'T, MAKE YOUR OWN STRIP LIGHTS USING, SOCKETS AND WHITE ALUMINUM GUTTER, YOU CAN GET AT LEAST 4-6 FROM 1 8 FOOT SECTION...UNDER $10. $1 EACH FOR END CAPS AND AND $3 FOR SOCKETS/WITH SWITCHES.
AND YOU CAN USE HIGHER WATTAGE BULBS!
BUT THE BEST DEAL IS THE LIGHTS OF AMERICA FLUOREX OUT DOOR FLOOD LIGHT, FITS MOST TANKS (I HAVE 4 ON A 55G.), IS WATERPROOF, FULL SPECTRUM, 250 WATTS FLUORESCENT
65 REAL WATTS USED, AND AROUND $50
hi, i'm still an amature...learning about planted aquarium. your blog is great!
ReplyDeleteabout your DIY CO2 project...how do you stop the CO2 supply(say in the night)???
sorry if its a silly thing to ask....:)
After reading this and other articles about the new Spiral Lights, I'm planning on building my own hood and light strip over my 150 Gallon. I was planning on using the plastic light sockets you get from home depot and probably put about 6 - 100 Watt 6500K Daylight bulbs across the top of my hood. My only concern is will 6 - 100 bulbs which are actually 26 watts each all be able to run off one plug?
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