Monday, December 11, 2006

Aquascape Analysis #1: ADA Tank 21

This will be the first of many aquascape analysis posts, where beginners and even intermediate aquascapers can learn some of the basics of aquascaping. Each post, I'll take an aquascaped aquarium that I feel is an outstanding example of the art form and perform a detailed analysis of just what makes it so special. This week I'll be analyzing "ADA Tank 21" from the ADA Thailand website galleries. Click on the pictures for larger versions.

This is one of my favorite ADA (Aqua Design Amano) aquascapes because of the colors and the flow. The contrast between the red and the green plants is outstanding, and the light gravel further heightens the contrast. First, let's look at the profile of the scape:


As you can see, this aquascape has a "V" profile, where the plants seem to dip down to some point, creating a valley. This creates interest for the viewer, because their eyes are drawn to this dip. It also creates interest for the viewer. The human mind is curious, and we wonder what's through that dip and behind the tall plants. The variation in height also eliminates the "wall of plants" effect that can occur if all background plants are the same height.


Next, the focal point of this aquascape is clearly the red plant in the middle (I can't quite tell what type of plant it is exactly). It instantly draws the focus and attention of the viewer, acting as a "home base" for their gaze. Note well that this focal point is not in the center of the aquarium, but off to one side, following the Golden Rule of Aquascaping. However, there are also two other points of interest (yellow). From the focal point, the viewer's gaze is drawn to the left and to the right to the two groups of bright green plants on either end of the aquarium. This draws the viewer's eyes in a natural flow around the aquarium and back to the middle.


This flow is further enhanced by the placement of the driftwood. All of the pieces guide the eyes in the direction intended, that is either to the left and the right (or back to the focal point). They essentially act as a road map for the viewer's gaze. Eyes that wander uncontrollably or have no guidance in an aquascape create an uneasy, stressful feeling for the viewer. The driftwood pieces also help to separate the foreground from the background and create a defined midground, but at the same time, soften the boundaries between the areas by transecting them.


Here we can see the three seperate areas of the aquascape. The foreground (in green) is low and consists of moss covered rocks. The midground (blue) consists of driftwood and Java Ferns that add contrast to the fluffy moss foreground. The background (yellow) is the "meat" of this aquascape, with vibrant stem plants making up the entire background. Each area contrasts with the other areas, defining them for the viewer without sudden boundaries. This is done through colors and leaf shape/general plant appearance. This helps to create depth in the aquascape.

The name of the game in this excellent aquascape is contrast and the aquascaper uses colors, plant types and leaf shapes, and flow to help define areas, create depth, and guide the viewer's gaze.

Tuesday, December 05, 2006

Holiday Aquarium Gift Guide #1

To get into the holiday season, and to help out those who have an freshwater planted aquarium addicted among their friends or family, I've decided to being a series of posts on gifts that all aquarium lovers will enjoy. Be sure to mark these on your wishlist if you are an aquarium ethusiast yourself!

Takashi Amano's Nature Aquarium World Series



All three of these books are showcases of Amano's greatest live freshwater plant aquascapes, and each one is a work of art. These are perfect coffee table books and offer ideas and inspiration for an intermediate to advanced fishkeeper and aquascaper. Book 1 contains Amano's earlier work, with every size aquarium. Books 2 and 3 are a sequence, with Book 2 starting off with miniature planted aquariums and working its way up to medium sized planted aquariums. Book 3 is all larger planted aquariums. Although you won't find much advice or information on how to create a better freshwater aquascape in the text, the photographs are priceless and well worth it even just to look at.

Also By Takashi Amano



A Nature Aquarium World for the beginner and intermediate freshwater aquascaper, Aquarium Plant Paradise offers more in depth information on set-up and design of the tanks featured. Once again, the pictures are priceless. The translation is a little rough from Japanese, but it is more than made up for in the quality of the planted tanks.

Coming next...the best places to buy a gift certificate for an aquascaper!

Monday, December 04, 2006

Aquarium Beginner's Guides

According to last month's poll, 83% of you wanted to see more beginner's guides. Now my question to you is, what kind of beginner's guides do you want to see? What do you need help with? What aspect of fish keeping or aquascaping mystifies you? I'm not going to put this into a poll only because I want some open ended answers; you can leave yours as a comment to this post! Hopefully I can get some good ideas and write some guides that are valuable to those starting out or those who just want a better understanding of the hobby.

Sunday, December 03, 2006

Ceratopteris thalictroides "Watersprite"

Scientific name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
Common name: Watersprite

Geographic location: Tropics worldwide

Temperature: 68F-84F

pH: 5.0-8.0
Light: Low (1.5WPG) to High (3WPG+)
Growth
: Very Fast
Difficulty: Beginner


Watersprite is one of the easiest aquarium plants to grow, once it becomes established. It can grow both as a floating plant or rooted in the substrate. If grown floating, it will grow rapidly and spread to cover the entire surface. However, unlike other floating plants, it's easy to get rid of or thin out. It's very easy to spread as it grows tiny plantlets on exisitng leaves that can be separated and planted or floated, and any broken leaves that float to the surface will sprout and grow. It's often used in its floating role as a nutrient sponge for tanks that have just been set up or are having algae issues. Adding some to a tank will quickly outcompete most algae.


When grown in the substrate, watersprite will quickly grow to the surface. It grows like a fern; all the leaves emerge from the base and unfurl upwards. For this reason, it can take up a lot of space in an aquarium. It also can grow up to 30 inches tall, so it will quickly reach the surface of most tanks. Light is rarely an issue, as it can grow with less than 1.5 WPG, albiet slowly.


Trimming watersprite and keeping it under control is probably the most difficult part of growing this plant. It can't really be trimmed per se. If you cut off a leaf, a larger one will just grow back in its place. Instead, it's better to remove the entire plant, cut off a few leaves and let them float and sprout roots. Then, plant these smaller plants where the old plant used to be.


CO2 and fertilizers are rarely needed for healthy growth, but adding them will increase growth rates substantially. Unfortunately, certain snails love to eat watersprite, however these snails also eat all kinds of other aquarium plants and shouldn't be kept in a planted aquarium if possible. Most common planted tank snails will not eat watersprite, nor any other plant.


Its versatility, utility, and ease of care make watersprite an ideal plant for the beginner or for a planted aquarium that has just been set up. Be prepared to be giving away baby plants left and right though!

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